Act 2, Scene 19
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Day 3 of rollercoaster week. Up early, a few last-minute errands, and its off to Siena for Palio. I was surprised to find the bus half empty. Apparently lots of students had signed up to go then backed out when they found out lots of riders and horses have been killed over the years. "Too cruel to the horses", they whined. "And how was your steak last night?" I asked. |
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The Palio is a 700 year-old traditional horse race held twice a year in the main piazza. The 8 largest neighborhoods enter their horse and rider, while the 8 smaller neighborhoods draw straws for the other 2 positions. For 300,000 lire you can get a grandstand seat but if you don't mind sitting in the sun on a cobblestone piazza for a couple of hours you can get a free spot in the center of the track. I was happy to be in “the pit” with the rest of the commoners. We went prepared with beverages, snacks and the Delta blanket. | |
A parade of people representing each neighborhood marches slowly around the piazza, tossing the neighborhood flags high into the air in a little contest to see who can toss the highest. A cart led by 4 absolutely
massive oxen pulls the bigwigs of the town around the track to take their
place at the starting line as judges. The riders come through and each
neighborhood cheers their hero. The riders pick up their crops, which
theyre allowed to use on their horse, another horse or another rider,
probably even on the people in the stands if they want to there
are no rules in the race – and line up to start. The sharpest turn on
the course is padded along the outer wall with mattresses but another
sharp turn is padded with nothing but grandstands full of fans. |
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They told us most of the details
on the race. The blue and gray rider with the goose mascot was this race's
favorite as he'd won the previous race. The blue/gray fans where everywhere.
We were pulling for the black/white rider as they had the coolest flag
and suddenly theyre off! The yellow/green fans jumped
the fences in manic glee and the blue/gray fans were all crying. Four hours
of waiting for 5 minutes of glory indeed. It reminded me of the chariot
race scene from Ben Hur, minus the chariots. Thrilling! |
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