June, 1996
"Exit, stage left even."
Snagglepuss
The plane flight from Atlanta
to Bruxelles (Brussels) was uneventful. Nothing of note for an entire
night of sitting in the same tiny, uncomfortable seat watching a cheesy
computer animation of a plane unmoving on a map. It changes every few
seconds to show a close up of how far you havent moved, the outside
temperature to remind you that youll die instantly should the plane
blow a door or something, then back to the map of the Atlantic with the
plane in the exact same place. The lucky ones nod off and wake up sometime
later, amazed at how far the pixels have crept across the display. The
rest of us suffer through a couple of bad movies everyone has already
seen.
I couldn't decide if I should try to sleep or if I should try to stay
awake in an attempt to adjust to the time difference when we arrived.
The excitement of being underway decided for me and I sat awake the entire
flight, amazed that Id pulled it off a 9 week study-abroad
program in Italia (Italy), followed by a week on my own in Paris or Amsterdam,
whichever I could afford.
On the flight I got a feeling for what the rest of the students in the
program were like. Most didnt realize Brussels was in Belgium, or
where Belgium is for that matter. Typical college educated
youth of postmodern USA.
A brief layover in the Bruxelles airport and it's off to Napoli (Naples.)
On
my way off the plane I decided to steal the small sheet Delta provided.
They call it a blanket.
I stuffed it in my carry-on in case I needed a towel, a la Hitchhikers
Guide to the Galaxy.
Napoli has been described as
the armpit of Europe for quite some time - hot, smelly, sticky. However,
when we arrive it's not hot at all. In fact, I was wishing I'd brought
something with long sleeves as we trundled out to the waiting busses.
But the trip out of town did show some of the underarm qualities of the
town.
There are 2 car junkyards per person, many under long-abandoned half-constructed
bridges leading to nowhere. Corrugated tin hovels and creeks buried under
floating pollution are frequent sights. It's the most crowded city in
Europe, high population and low income, and it shows. Vesuvius, the only
active volcano in Europe, sits over all of it, a pile of ash waiting silently
to again pass judgment on those below.
Ick.
Fortunately we didnt
stick around. Our first stop was Vico Equense, a small town on the opposite
side of the bay of Napoli. From the highway we got a marvelous
view from top the high gray cliffs overlooking the bay with Napoli looking
charming in the distance and Vesuvius lurking behind it.
The bus unloaded at Hotel
Aequa. I was buzzing on adrenalin again, so my backpack didn’t slow me
down as I gawked at the hotel’s beautiful patio overlooking the bay, and
the pretty dining area with huge windows and French style doors
opening onto the balcony. We climbed the steps to find our rooms.
Rooms? More like cells - cramped, hot, and stuffy. The only breath of
air in the place came out of our own lungs, smelling of 14 hours on a
plane. I dropped my bags, washed my face, and headed to dinner.
The food wasn’t great either. But the patio faces out over the
aforementioned view with Wisteria in full bloom hanging from overhead,
completely obliterating any memory of the dismal rooms or forgettable food
inside. The nice swimming pool helped wash off the sweat from the long
flight and soon jetlag hit the group like Novocain. The ones who weren’t
sleepy were soon sedated by bottles of wine as a group of us sat on a balcony
on the third floor, passing bottles around and introducing ourselves.
Most students came from the University of Georgia but only a few people
knew each other.
At night Napoli glimmered like scattered droplets of gold across the
bay, though the air is so hazy that Vesuvius is barely visible in broad
daylight. So I sat on the railing and eavesdropped on the conversations
for an hour or so, then tried to get some sleep. Had I not been exhausted
from the journey I doubt I could have even shut my eyes in the cramped,
hot cell with two roomates snoring so loud they would've rattled the
windows, had there been any windows to rattle. Fortunately I was dead tired.
The view in the morning. No,
that's not misty fog, it's the smoke from burning trash, almost ruining a
marvelous view.
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